Fairbanks

So we made it to the end of the Alaskan Hwy, near Delta Junction.  Because of our "detour" to Dawson and the Top of the World Hwy, we actually missed a section of the Alaskan Hwy, but will hit it on the way back.  Next stop, North Pole.  Large parking area for our RV and neat area with Santa's Reindeer (no Rudolph), his sleigh, work shop, and a fine gift shop (they always have a gift shop)  You could get a personal letter from Santa sent to  someone.  Or just send them the standard "believer" or "unbeliever" printed on Santa stationary. Santa's not cheap so no one in our family will be receiving any.  Randy even took a try at Santa's job.  Not enough Hohoho.  

We continue on to the city of Fairbanks and found our chosen campground at the State Park.  Wasn't easy for a big rig and no satellite signal, plus too much road construction right in front of the park, so we only stayed 1 night and moved to the Ice Park Campground.  In March they have the World Ice Carving Championship there.  Not much of a campground but they have improvements in the works.  $20 a night for 30 amp electric versus $40's for electric/water at a parking lot type campground.  We don't mind the landscaping, or lack of as we are never there much anyway.  Super nice volunteers run the campground and boarding rooms for gold dredge and construction workers that live there all summer.  New dog sled area under construction and opened while we were there a week.  Got the "A" plus tour from the owner before opening.  It's a science how they breed, train, and work with those dogs.  They plan to have a 1 mile area graveled so they can give dog sled rides in the near future.   We always start our city/town visits with a stop at the Visitor Center.  Best place to get info and activities in the area.

I took this picture at 2am - that's about as dark as it gets for a few hours, then sunrise begins.  

Toured the Univ of Alaska Museum - lots of mounts and historic artifacts.  Movies to view on different topics (dinosaurs, Northern lights, glaciers) and we learned about the Eskimos and American Japanese that were born in Alaska put in Internment camps during WWII or sent to Japan. History is so interesting when you see, hear, and get immersed in it.  

We stopped by the Alaskan Pipeline to check it out, not all 800 miles of it but it is visible in many places we went.  The Tanana Valley forest fires were going so many of our days were in a smoke filled area.  Over 600 fires this summer due to lightening and a few man made.  Dry so they are all praying for rain.  We had 2 constant rain days, so hoping it helps the fire situation!  

Started out on the Dalton Hwy (Haul Road), if you have ever watched Ice Road Truckers on TV.  Stopped by the Hillside Café were they stopped for a meal on the show.  Not the worst road we have been on but decided that the price of gas and traveling 10 hours to the Arctic Circle wasn't worth it.  They have a sign there to take your picture but you would have to go another 200+ miles to make it to the Arctic Sea and Prudoe Bay.  We decided to go about 60 miles on it and turn around.  Do something else for the day.  

We stopped by the Chena Hot Springs and walked around.  Gorgeous flowers that they start from seed in October (inside) so with all the sun each day they grow fast in the summer.  

Toured the Ice Museum and their freezer where they have numerous carvings from the previous years competition on display.  We even got a sled and slid down the ice slide. Fun!!  

Rode the Discovery III paddleboat up Chena River to the Tanana and back.  Saw dog sled team of the late Susan Butcher who won the Iditorod 3 or 4 times, in action.  An Inuvik village with fish wheel demo, fish drying demo, and  all led by natives that are attending the U of A.

At the Ice Park in October they have a pumpkin patch and kids activities, including Ice carved pumpkins.  Under this layer of straw and tarps are 8x8 foot chunks of ice they cut in March out of the river or lake and store there until October.  AND it doesn't melt !!!  Blew me away........

 

Toured Dredge #8 and rode the train to the site.  Panned for gold and had a great time.  Lots to see in Fairbanks and easy to get around - minus the one way streets in the small downtown area.  Otherwise, every ammenity and store for stocking up.  Saw this Mama moose in the water.  First she's down for 2-3 minutes, then up chewing away.  Baby stood on the shore, just waiting. 

Dawson City & Top of the World Hwy

The only way to get to Dawson City is off the Alaskan Highway and onto the Klondike Hwy.  Depending who you asked, we got a variety of stories about how great the roads were or how terribly awful they were.  We had traveled all this way, so we were willing to take a chance and make the drive.  332 miles from Whitehorse to Dawson City..……  Beautiful scenery with forests, streams, rivers, lakes, and mountains. We stopped to check out the famous Baerburn Cinnamon Rolls, worlds largest.  It is also a stop on the Yukon Quest, a sled dog race held every year in the Yukon.  Longer and more difficulty than the Iditarod in Alaska. A few other tiny towns but not a lot to stop for.

We are most definitely in the Terribly camp.  For the supposed paved road, it was paved in small portions.  But mostly washboard gravel, frost heaves (major pot holes), rough pavement patching, and construction.  It would be rough but fine in a normal vehicle.  But a 43 foot motor home, towing a car equaling 65 feet, it was not pretty.  We were so exhausted and everything was so muddy, dusty, and dirty.  WOW, never again but glad we made it in one piece.  Rocks everywhere, even in the kayaks that were on the roof of the SUV.  Disconnected the SUV from the motor home, turned on the ignition and large puffs of dirt came out the vents. **cough, cough**.  The motorcycle never touched the pavement but it looked like it had ridden the entire way - coated in dust and dirt.  The campground in Dawson had 2 power wash hoses for washing vehicles and RVs.  $1 (Loonie) Canadian for 3 minutes.  We washed the SUV for $5 and the RV on our way out for $10.  Muddy mess on the gravel, but off our vehicles.

OK so now we made it to Dawson City - home of the 1898 Gold Rush and the current gold mining operations and TV show Gold Rush.  Wonderful history and things to do and see. Basically 8 blocks wide and about 10 blocks long downtown and other areas for services (gas, repair, housing, heavy equipment sales, and who knows what).  Visitor Information Center is always our first stop in every town.  We jumped in on a city walking tour with Tales of Dawson.  We learned of Cave Man Bill - lives in a cave across the Yukon River from town over 19 years.  He couldn't afford an apartment so someone suggested the cave.  He lives there 365 days a year, has Wi-Fi and now 3 areas for living.  Downtown Hotel and the Sourdough Saloon - Home of the SourToe Cocktail.  A drink that contains a pickled human toe and you must drink the beverage and the toe must touch your lips to be a certified alumni.  Gross and I didn't even want to see it, but a tourist must for those that have the courage and drink.  Robert Service's Cabin, a well known Yukon writer and poet. Jack London's Cabin - wrote The Call of the Wild.
Diamond Tooth Gerties, with 3 nightly Can-Can and singing shows.  Very entertaining and family friendly!  Many original 1898-1900's buildings. Klondike Kate's - great restaurant with many colorful characters. We drove to the top of Midnight Dome to see the city, Yukon and Klondike Rivers below.  On the same date we were up there but in 1903 the town all went to the top for a picnic at midnight.  To see the summer sun and socialize.  It was neat to be in their place but 2 hours early (10pm).  There was a lot of smoke in the sky as the Alaskan forest fires are not under control and the smoke drifts this direction.  Praying for rain so the fires get under control but not for us, for at least 1 day, so we can get through the next leg of our journey on the Top of the World highway.  This known packed gravel highway is not travelable in our big rigs when it rains, too wet, slippery and not safe.  We won't become Sourdoughs on this trip and probably never but we had an adventure and learned about those that took the challenge 117 years ago to seek their fortune in the Yukon.  To be a true Sourdough you must spend and survive the fall frost, winter, and stay through the spring thaw in the Yukon to achieve that status.  Otherwise, the rest of us are just called Cheechako's.  We did see one of Todd Hoffman's miner's from the 316 Mining Company in town, Randy - if you watch Gold Rush you will know what I mean.
I just love the Fireweed all along the highways, beautiful wild flowers.

All throughout Dawson area were tailings, the piles of gold miners work.  They even have a subdivision called Tailing Subdivision.  Not my idea of landscaping.

Early morning rise and a power wash to the RV - we're off to downtown Dawson City and to catch the Ferry across the Yukon River to the Top of the World hwy.  It is the only way to get across the river and the only way to the hwy.  Otherwise, you could drive all the way back to Whitehorse, continue up the Alaskan Hwy and around the other side to drive it, but you would have to turn around at the river and just drive back.  Approx 900 miles the other way.  So we will adventure on the Ferry that operates 24/7 in the summer and has never dumped a passenger!   1-2 RV's and a few cars and the 5 minute trip to the other side.  They know what they are doing and a very smooth ride.  Hook up the SUV and off we go.  It's only 103 miles to the town of Chicken but due to the packed gravel road we have been told it could take 5 hours.  We did it in 4 hours.  Nice, dry day and the road was actually easier then the Klondike hwy from Whitehorse but dustier.  Much less stressful on the driver!!  Due to the Alaskan fire smoke the mountains we drove up/down/around were not as visible but still a stunning view.  I want to make a video of the trip as I took many clips of the different views and pavements of the trip.  Maybe show someone else what to expect as words cannot describe it.  Gator and I went from one side of the RV to the other shooting pictures and videos of the different scenery.  He thought it was a fun game to chase me.  Very little traffic going the opposite direction so we had the road to ourselves and could hog the middle or left side when we saw a rough patch.  A few switchbacks but nothing with the dry gravel.  I can't imagine taking this road in the rain.  

We arrived in Chicken - Population 15 with 7 living year around.  There are actually 4 sections of Chicken.  The town of Chicken (gas station, souvenirs, small café, and antler carving shop.  Chicken Creek - souvenir store and coffee shop.  And Chicken - the true town that is shown on the internet, owned by Sue (whom we met) that has the shop, saloon, and café old buildings.  Oh yah and across the street in the tiny post office that has mail flown in Tues & Fridays.  We had purchased a gold panning - pan in Dawson (just for the history and a souvenir) but there are areas on the river just outside and 16 miles from Chicken that you are allowed to pan for free.  Other areas are owned and mined by specific people and you don't want to go on their land!  So we drove the 16 miles to get our 5 gallon bucket of material to pan.  Brought it back to the RV as it was starting to sprinkle.  We haven't gotten to it yet, as it has been raining for 2 days.  A much needed rain, and praying the wild fires are getting this too.  Thank you Jesus for getting us over the Top of the World hwy before the rain.  We are officially in Alaska!!!

 This was the sky at 2am.  That's about the amount of "night" you get in summer.  Lasts for 1-2 hours and they you start to see the sun again.

Whitehorse

Arrived in Whitehorse, larger city with many areas to see and stock up on food, gas, and diesel. Most of the campgrounds in Canada are similar: large gravel parking lot, power and possibly water/sewer hookups.  Sites are side by side like a parking lot. The price of a nice resort in the south US, but definitely not the look or amenities.  ($32/night) But fortunately we got the Good Sam Club discount 10% ($28.80) and translate that from Canadian to US dollar ($23.90)  So worth the stop to recharge our batteries, literally.  We drove Miles Canyon drive, a short few miles but a beautiful over view of the canyon along the Yukon River.  Walking a trail to the edge is a swinging bridge to cross the river. Beautiful tiny wild flowers along the edge and great views.  Even saw a beaver, in action. The rapids below the Miles Canyon were thought to resemble the main of a horse - hence it's name.

Then on to the Fish Ladder. In short, the Salmon eggs hatch up river, hang out for a few months then start downstream on the Yukon River for 1875 miles to the Bering Sea.  It takes the little "fry" about 2 years to make the trip. They live in the sea for 4-7 years then feel the call for their one time mating.  Heading back up the Yukon for 1875 miles, which now only takes them 3 months.  Lay their eggs, fertilize the eggs and shortly after die.  Each salmon has their birth place "GPS" location within them and all return to their own specific area on the river to lay eggs, fertilize, and die.  The ladder comes into play like the Locks in Lake Superior or Panama.  Humans have built damns and the fish can't return so they put in ladder like tunnels on the side of the river that tunnels the fish slowly up the grade of the river without hitting the falls.  Very interesting stop.  It will be mid July before the salmon are in this area in the 10,000s.  USS Klondike steamboat is dry docked on the side of the Yukon for viewing and tours. The way to get to the Yukon and get supplies for many, many years in the early 1900's.

We were lucky enough to arrive on June 21 (Summer Solstice) and the Tlingit First Nation celebration. Performers, dancers, entertainment, crafts, and food at the First Nation center in town.  Neat to be in a place for a specific event and see how they celebrate.  They are very firm on their beliefs in who marries who.  The females dictate the tribe types, either Crow or Wolf.  If the Grandmother was Crow the Grandfather would be Wolf.  But all the kids must marry Wolf.  So their next generation would marry the opposite of the female in the relationship.  They have had murders of spouses, when someone married the same tribe type. Like I said, very firm on this!! There is a large Canadian Tire (Sam's Club type) store, Wal-Mart, and Canada Supercenter (Canada Super Wal-Mart) huge fresh produce section and many items only sold in bins (candy, pasta, beans, spices) Scoop, bag, and buy. 

The Wal-Mart must have had 30 RV's in its parking lot.  Breaks the rules on overnight parking in Wal-Mart but they must be OK with it.  More RV's than cars. I had to stop at the local Quilt shop and pick up some local fabric prints for future use. 

The MacBride Museum is a wonderful display of history and taxidermy mounts of all animals in the area. Great to see these beautiful animals up close, without grabbing my bear spray or running faster than Randy to get out of their way. We learned to pan gold in their class, even picked up a fleck of gold to take home.  The delay in history really showed us how far advanced the Lower 48 has been.  Probably 20-30 years later in receiving/achieving many modern items.  The First Nation (Indians) just received their official land in the 1970's after being removed, relocated, and ignored for decades.  That's recent history and blows my mind. 

We walked through the Old Log Church in town.  First church built in 1900 for the people (miners) and First Nation in the area.  The newer church next door had a fund raiser for Nepal and for $5 we got a hamburger, coleslaw, chips, cake, and juice.  Great lunch and very nice people.  It reminded me of the 1960-70 church social.  We had many of those in our church and our basement.  

A local front yard had this massive bike tire dome on display.  I wonder where all those wheel-less bikes are?   Maybe on display in someone else's front yard.

The world's largest wind vine - a DC3 plane that turns easily with any 5mph or greater wind.  We saw it move many times. It is at the airport and outside the Transportation Museum in Whitehorse.  Great museum. A few days after we leave they have an annual race down the Yukon in canoes.  Just like many people & miners did to get around.  They race from Whitehorse to Dawson City. Takes about 4 days and they were preparing for the big event.  Filled our water tank and diesel tank and after 3 nights, off we go towards Dawson City.

Watson Lake

A nights stop in Watson Lake.  During WWII and the building of the Alaskan highway, to protect Alaska from the Japanese attacking its borders, the GI's based in Watson Lake got homesick.  So they put up a sign post with their hometown and how many miles away it was.  Just for fun and to have a way of thinking about home.  Now, almost 75 years later, there are over 80,000 signs in the Sign Forest.  Anything from peoples governmental roadside city population signs to trash can lids to wooden signs and even a few toilet seats.  We found an old car license blank and put our information on it to post.  The Northern Lights theatre puts on a good show and information about the Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis.  Too bad it's best seen in the winter, as it is on my bucket list.  Too many hours of daylight in the summer to get dark enough. But it makes for great 2am dog walking when I forget to close the bedroom door to block out the light.  Not much else in Watson Lake but a nice stop over.  Of course, we had to make our own sign to post on the famous wall.

The scenery along the next part of the drive to Whitehorse was beautiful.  If not for the large number of bugs that gave their life on my windshield, the pictures would have turned out better.  Curvy roads with their share of pot holes and washboard sections.  Muncho lake was beautiful.  Wish we could have stopped and kayaked, but we wanted to get to Whitehorse before it rained.